Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
