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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.